Recipes for Health: Two Tomatillo Salsas

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

I've always had a weakness for green salsa made with tomatillos, so when I stumbled upon a stall at a small farmers' market selling beautiful firm, purple-tinged tomatillos last week, I bought them on impulse. I let the other produce at the market guide my decisions about the taco fillings I now knew I'd be working on in the coming days. That wasn't difficult; the same farmer who had the tomatillos had pink-skinned potatoes and red onions. I bought corn and squash, cilantro and beautiful green beans at other stands. And now I had a great destination for the serrano chiles that were ready in my garden.

Recipes for Health

Martha Rose Shulman presents food that is vibrant and light, full of nutrients but by no means ascetic, fun to cook and to eat.

Tomatillos, which are closer botanically to the gooseberry than to the tomato, have a wonderful acidic tang. They're low in calories and a good source of iron, magnesium, phosphorus and copper, as well as dietary fiber, vitamin C, vitamin K, niacin, potassium and manganese. To get the best out of them they should be simmered or grilled for about 10 minutes, until they're soft and the color has gone from pale green to olive. You can use them for a quick, blended salsa and also for a cooked salsa, which has a rounder, seared flavor. I made both last week and used them with different taco fillings. The salsas keep well in the refrigerator and I'm enjoying the leftovers with just about everything I make, from scrambled eggs to grilled fish to plain corn tortillas that I crisp in the microwave.

Two Tomatillo Salsas

I could eat both of these green salsas with a spoon. The quick fresh salsa is the tangier of the two.

Quick Fresh Tomatillo Salsa

1 pound tomatillos, husked and rinsed

2 to 4 jalapeño or serrano chiles, seeded for a milder salsa, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup chopped onion, soaked for 5 minutes in cold water, drained and rinsed

1/4 to 1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro (to taste)

Salt to taste (about 1/2 teaspoon)

1/4 to 1/2 cup water, as needed

1. Place the tomatillos in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, flipping them over halfway through, until softened and olive green. Remove from the heat. Transfer to a blender. Add the chiles, onion, cilantro, and 1/4 cup water to the blender and blend to a coarse puree. Transfer to a bowl, add salt, and thin out as desired with water. Taste and adjust salt, and set aside for at least 30 minutes before serving, to allow the flavors to develop.

Yield: 2 cups, serving 8

Nutritional information per serving: 21 calories; 1 gram fat; 0 grams saturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 0 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 146 milligrams sodium (based on 1/2 teaspoon salt); 1 gram protein

Cooked Tomatillo Salsa

1 pound fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed, or 2 13-ounce cans, drained

2 or 3 jalapeño or serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded for a milder salsa

1/4 cup chopped white onion, soaked for 5 minutes in cold water, then drained and rinsed

2 large garlic cloves, peeled

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil, sunflower oil or canola oil

2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock

Salt to taste (1/2 to 1 teaspoon)

1. Place the tomatillos in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, flipping them over halfway through, until softened and olive green. Drain and place in a blender. Add the chiles, chopped onion, garlic, salt, and cilantro sprigs. Blend until smooth.

2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan or skillet over medium-high heat until it ripples. Drizzle in a drop of tomatillo purée to test the heat. If it makes a lot of noise and sputters immediately, the oil is hot enough. Add the tomatillo purée, and stir constantly until it thickens and begins to stick to the pan, about 5 minutes. When you run your spoon down the middle of the pan it should leave a canal. Stir in the stock, bring to a simmer, and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, stirring often. The sauce should coat the front and back of your spoon. Taste and adjust seasoning. Remove from the heat. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 2 cups, serving 8

Advance preparation: Both salsas will keep for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. You will need to thin out the fresh salsa with water. The cooked salsa freezes well.

Nutritional information per serving: 40 calories; 2 grams fat; 0 grams saturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 0 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 153 milligrams sodium (based on 1/2 teaspoon salt); 1 gram protein

Martha Rose Shulman is the author of "The Very Best of Recipes for Health."

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