I always stuff an orange or a tangerine into the toe of my son's Christmas stocking. He is more interested in the chocolate in his stocking and I usually end up eating his orange, but I'll never forego this European tradition that dates from a time when citrus was a rare treat. We in the United States take our oranges and grapefruit for granted year round, but citrus really does have a season — winter — and it is welcome at this time of year, when we need all the vitamin C we can get.
My idea of a perfect Christmas gift is a big box of ruby red grapefruit. I have had the great fortune to live in two major citrus producing areas in my life, South Texas and now Los Angeles. I buy Valencia oranges by the bag and juice them until the end of their season, when navels come in (around now). I always have a big bowl of clementines on my annual New Year's Day buffet table, and they always disappear.
Around this time of year I start thinking about going beyond juice and unadorned fresh citrus. This year I have been adding oranges to salads, making vinaigrettes with grapefruit juice and experimenting with new desserts. The Culinary Institute of America is on the same wavelength: their latest Prochef newsletter carried the headline "The Professional Chef Discovers Specialty Citrus."
Beet, Orange and Arugula Salad: A colorful salad with sweet and sharp flavors.
Grapefruit and Navel Orange Gratin: This winter dessert is adapted from a recipe from the French chef Olympe Versini's cookbook, "Olympe."
Fennel and Orange Salad With Black Olives on a Bed of Couscous: A salad, modeled on a traditional North African one, that is great for buffets.
Gingered Winter Fruit Ambrosia: An old fashioned fruit ambrosia with a gingery kick.
Grapefruit Vinaigrette With Greens or Broccoli: This vinaigrette works with a variety of greens, like chard, beet greens or broccoli.
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Well: Adding Citrus to Salads and Desserts
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