Recipes for Health
Martha Rose Shulman on healthful cooking.
The idea for this week's recipes began during a week and a half I spent in Boston and New York in early September, when I kept noticing that pickled peaches were on many restaurant menus. Chefs were throwing them into salads and using the sweet and sour peaches to accompany meat and fish. I came back to Los Angeles and went right to the farmers' market, intent on storing some of that summer bounty myself.
I then looked at the New York City Greenmarket website to see if the fruits and vegetables I wanted to pickle would still be available at the end of September in the Northeast. I was in luck; according to the site, peaches are available through September, and beans, corn and squash through October. I also wanted to make a pickle with green tomatoes, because this is the time of year when the last of your summer tomato crop may be on the vine, but it won't necessarily ripen. When I went to my own farmers' market in Los Angeles one grower had a huge supply of green tomatoes, right next to his ripe red ones. I bought a few pounds and made a cross between a relish and a pickle (the tomatoes and onions are sliced but the other ingredients are chopped).
I am not an experienced canner and I didn't feel that this was the week to get new equipment and teach myself more about putting up fruits and vegetables for the long haul, so I made refrigerator pickles, which do not have to be processed after they are sealed in sterilized jars. I didn't make large amounts – a couple of pint jars are what most of these recipes yield – but if you are dealing with a lot of produce from your garden you can always increase the recipes. These don't keep for as long as processed canned goods, but I don't think that will matter because we're going to eat them up pretty quickly.
This week we are not including nutritional information with the recipes. It isn't possible to do the analyses accurately, because we don't know how much you will eat, and it is impossible to accurately ascertain how much sodium and sugar the fruits and vegetables will absorb. Do note that even though there is more sugar than you usually see in my recipes in these brines, most of it stays in the brine, which you don't eat with the pickles.
Pickled Peaches With Sweet Spices: A balance of sweet, sour and spice makes for an irresistible combination.
Pickled Green Tomatoes: A delicious cross between a pickle and a relish.
Refrigerator Corn Relish: A colorful relish that is both mildly spicy and sweet.
Summer Squash Refrigerator Pickles: Pickled squash that can go in salads or complement a variety of grains, meat or fish.
Pickled Green Beans: Serve these beans as an aperitif, garnish or side, or cut them up and add them to salads.
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